+27 (0)82 4000 470 rob@robcaskie.com

It was Roald Amundsen who once wrote “Glittering white, shining blue, raven black, in the light of the sun the land looks like a fairy tale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak, crevassed, wild as any land on our globe, it lies unseen and untrodden”. Beautifully descriptive prose from the Norwegian, and may just as well applied to the scene surrounding Le Lyrial early this morning. We have awoken to another, wait for it, incredible day in this white wonderland. Under a blue sky, peaks, crevasses and glaciers run off in every direction as far as the eye can see. A mass of icebergs precludes the usual approach to Booth Island, where Jean-Baptiste Charcot overwintered in 1904. His ship, the Francais, spent the winter sheltered in Francais Cove, so we landed early with the scouting team in this very cove. Imagine a doctor 36 years of age, hitherto a gentleman sailor in Greenland and Faroe Islands deciding to take a scientific expedition to the Antarctic? Eccentric, passionate, perhaps naive Frenchman. On the rocks stand the remains of Charcot’s observatory, and up on the summit to the right, the cairn erected by his expedition. History records the sadness of all when Toby, their pig, died. I related to this, since the dogs harassed every seal they found, and slaughtered the penguins. The stone masonry in both constructions is very good, having stood the test of Antarctic winds and storms for 112 years now. Anchor chain across the entrance to the bay protected Francais from icebergs. In confirmation of the shelter this cove provides, a tiny yacht was moored in the cove, and a second arrived during the afternoon. Brave intrepid sailors!

Fresh, frozen snow had created a very slippery surface, so mats from the Zodiacs were laid down to facilitate our guest’s arrival off the Zodiacs. After a short, stiff climb, most stopped, and stared in awe. The bay on the southern side of Booth Island stands filled with icebergs of every size and shape, the very bergs precluding our approaching from that quarter. With not a breath of wind to speak of, blue skies and azure blue water, one guest after another spoke about THIS being the Antarctica they had dreamed of seeing. Larry led a 1,5 mile hike up the ridge line, to Charcot’s cairn, from whence the views in all direction were stupendous. Deep, frozen snow, soon softened under the warm sun, and made the hike considerably more challenging for the second group (we may only land 100 guests at any one time). A number of guests managed to break their rented walking poles, obviously intended for gentler purposes. Patri watched over the penguin colony, containing Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie Penguins. South African Cruise Director, Jannie Cloete, came ashore, which we are told is such a rare experience that the officers considered blowing the ship’s horn. Jannie directs all on board operations expertly, whilst Suzana does likewise out of doors. Between them, they create magic for the passengers. The youngsters enjoyed snow ball fights. Light off the fresh snow led to almost every guest being sunburnt, in addition to the exposure yesterday.  Booth Island is probably the most awe-inspiring landing thus far on this cruise.

Back on board the special Antarctica BBQ was served. A fantastic assortment of meats and accompaniments were served – all delicious. Most guests chose to sit outside on Deck 6, near the pool, to further enjoy the Antarctic wonderland about the ship. The BBQ is served in two sessions – whilst one group enjoys their lunch, the other watch the IMAX presentation, Shackleton. Odds being very good that nobody has had a BBQ in surrounds like these before. As a South African, the braai is a highlight of this voyage, and the kitchen makes a very good job of it.
To add magic to the day, if that were possible, Zodiac tours took our guests into the Iceberg Alley on the other side of Booth Island. Cruising slowly through these ice behemoths at water level is a sublime experience, noticing their shapes and weathering, along with the varying shades of blue and white. It was explained how the ice absorbs and reflects all spectrums of  light, except blue and indigo, hence these amazing colours perceived by the human eye. A Leopard Seal was spotted on the ice – the serpentine creature gave us ample opportunity to appreciate its vast mouth and gape, regularly yawning and rolling over. A&K had arranged champagne and glasses, in a well-made wooden box thanks to the carpenters on board. A toast was proposed – on our Zodiac I proposed a toast to the weather Gods and suggested that these guests become ambassadors for the Great White Continent. As Frank Wild said “the little white voices keep calling me back”, and I trust that these folks have had a life-changing experience in Antarctica. A strong current was moving smaller pieces of ice about quickly, reminding us of just how fast this environment changes. We collected a beautiful piece of clear, sculpted ice to use as a display in the bar. Using Charcot’s cairn, up on the high ground, made navigation through the bergs and back to Le Lyrial an easy matter.

Around 6pm, the Captain nosed Le Lyrial into the Lemaire Channel, known as Fujichrome Fjord or Kodachrome Alley. This channel is roughly 7 miles long, and on average a mile wide. Perhaps one of the most beautiful parts of the Antarctic Peninsula, with mountains and glaciers plunging steeply into the sea. Some glaciers fairly even, others looking like white meringue moving constantly downhill. Irregularities in the substrate beneath creating crevasses. Another ship had tried to pass through the Lemaire this morning, unsuccessfully, on account of ice. As with almost all aspects of this cruise, good fortune was with us, and we were able to navigate all the way through to the southern end, where massive icebergs completely blocked the exit. Guests lined the decks, and the observation lounge on Deck 6 was jammed with people staring out at Nature’s wonderland. Ship’s officer carefully turned Le Lyrial around, using the bow thrusters, and we proceeded north again, headed for Wilhelmina Bay in the morning. The Lemaire Channel is as far south as we are coming on this voyage, and indeed as far south as most ships venture in the Peninsula.
It is a LONG run back to Ushuaia from here. This A&K itinerary has literally gotten better every day, and with two incredible first days, nobody would have dreamed that were possible. Today, was a stand out day in every guest’s mind, and watching guests editing their photographs would indicate lifetime memories saved.
For me, we have one more day in the Peninsula, then two days back across the Drake, before I begin the marathon flights home. Can hardly wait!

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