+27 (0)82 4000 470 rob@robcaskie.com

The excitement for first-timers to Antarctica is impossible to describe, and given travel restrictions over the past 20 months our guests were delighted to arrive in Buenos Aires yesterday. The Park Hyatt is a magnificent hotel, with stunning gardens between the two buildings. A wonderful afternoon of rain confined most to the hotel complex. A welcome dinner was served in the evening with half of the guests, that social distancing be observed.  The 9 Expedition Team members here in Buenos Aires at present were introduced to the guests, including an astronaut and an astronomer (pertaining to eclipse on 4 December). Remainder of Expedition Team are already in Ushuaia in southern Patagonia awaiting us.

Today began with PCR tests for all guests and staff, very efficiently carried out at the hotel. Guests were given the morning at leisure on a beautiful day to enjoy this cities avenues, and flowering Jacaranda trees. My highlight was seeing a dog-walker with 15 dogs, walking in a fan formation (akin to Greenland harness system rather than the paired Alaskan system – more about this later). One of the dogs stopped to relieve itself, as only a Labrador can. The dog-walker then had to maneuver himself to pick up the mess, and get all 15 dogs to move across to a rubbish bin. Rather like driving sled dogs. Well, once he had made it to the bin, it was as if he had lifted the brake, as the dogs took off down the sidewalk, him seemingly out of control. There is an awful lot of pulling power in 15 dogs, secured to oneself via shoulder harness!

The afternoon was filled with various city tours. Some guests went to a Tango demonstration, and the city highlights, others went to see the local graffiti. An old home bought in the 1930’s was found to hold a marvellous underground complex beneath it, called Zanjon, complete with canals to allow water to flow to the River Plate. The refurbishment and clean-up operation beggars belief, carefully explained by an old guide who was involved in the process. From underground cisterns holding rain water collected from the roof, to carefully constructed arches relying on compression to do their work. The present Pope is Argentinian, and recently visited Chile, but did not visit his homeland somewhat ingratiating himself with local Catholics – the predominant religion hereabouts. We visited the cathedral where the Pope used to hold Mass, and the tomb of San Martin. Evita Peron is clearly very prominent in the local history, as is the military junta under Galtieri and the Falklands War of 1982. Everybody thoroughly enjoyed learning more about Buenos Aires : the Paris of the South.

Covid and subsequent Lock-downs have been draconian in Argentina, and many shops remain closed. In places I noticed families on the sidewalk, with all their worldly possessions and children the ages of our grandchildren – it was absolutely heart-breaking. The number of homeless, destitute people is alarming. As I have so often said – Covid is destroying far more lives than it is ever going to take. Here, with inflation at 50% there is a blue rate of exchange for US$, which is double the official rate. I am trying to tip generously and encouraging others to do likewise. Tonight another welcome dinner was hosted, and guests are bursting to get up early tomorrow (4.30am) for the charter flight to Ushuaia to meet with our beautiful ship Le Lyrial for the journey to the glorious White Continent.
The conversation at my table inevitably drifted to the many anti-vaxxers in the USA, and how illogical their thinking is. Clearly they have no plans to travel, as we were asked for proof of vaccination at every airport, even in transit. Antarctica : The highest, driest, coldest and windiest Continent on Earth. The very place Shackleton and Wild coined the phrase “those little white voices keep calling me back”  about. No doubting these fortunate visitors will depart feeling similarly.

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