+27 (0)82 4000 470 rob@robcaskie.com

After the high winds and inclement weather yesterday afternoon and evening, it was fantastic to wake up to a much calmer, drier morning. Anchor was dropped early (5am) off Gold Harbour on the southern end of South Georgia. We could clearly see the Bertrab Glacier hanging precariously on high, above mighty cliff faces plunging into the ocean. Regarded by many as one of South Georgia’s most beautiful visitor sites, and deservedly so. I burst onto the rear deck at 6am to join the scouting party, and greeted everybody enthusiastically by name. This caused great amusement for everybody, my enthusiasm and largely the fact that they were all still half asleep.

The natural amphitheatre of cliffs and mountains, glaciers and waterfalls dropping steeply to the sea, providing a visual delight and unforgettable backdrop to the abundant wildlife found here. The name is derived from Filchner’s German Antarctic Expedition of 1911, who called this bay “Goldhaven”, on account of the iron pyrites or ‘fool’s gold’ they found in the local rocks. Gold Harbour is home to a large King Penguin colony. Plenty of Elephant Seals lie on the beach, looking like so many enormous sausages, occasionally rearing up to wrestle with another seal. Moving like an inchworm along the beach, they are the most endearing creatures, the weaner pups absolutely adorable. Gentoo Penguins nest in the Tussock Grass, Fur Seals jostle for space with the much bigger Elephant Seals, whilst Skuas, Petrels and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses circle overhead.

On a calm sea, with scarcely any swell, guests were ferried by Zodiac to the beach landing area. It was humbling to literally watch their jaws drop to the pontoons, as South Georgia cast her magic spell irretrievably upon them. Elephant Seal weaners immediately arrived to greet the guests in their bright red A&K parkas. These creatures with their huge round eyes the guests realised are a very different animal to the Antarctic Fur Seal, and one could sense the guests relaxing – the anxiety of aggressive Fur Seals taken away. Some guests have wonderful photo’s of their interacting with Elephant Seal weaners, who clearly are unaware of the IAATO guidelines regarding minimum distances, etc. I took many young kids terrified by the Fur Seals up close to young seals, to placate their fears and have a photo taken. Some insisted that I remain between the seal and themselves, but significant headway was made.
King Penguins stood on the beach unmoved by these tall, rather clumsy, red-clad visitors. In calm, warm, cloudy conditions guests wandered about in awe. Team members reminded them often, to carry this image with them as their memory of South Georgia. William Shakespeare may have compared thee to a Summer’s Day – my challenge to him would be to compare thee to Gold Harbour on a morning like this? People and places would, I am sure, be found wanting.
The whole scene was amplified by the sunlight making a regular appearance, creating unbelievable photographic opportunities. This is the sort of experience A&K dream of offering their valued guests, and this morning those dreams were exceeded. My brother, Pete, and Bruce Nozaic will well remember similar experiences here last season.

Over lunch Le Lyrial was repositioned in ever-increasing wind towards Drygalski Fjord, named after Prof Erich von Drygalski, leader of German Antarctic Expedition in 1901-3. Dr Wilhelm Filchner first chartered the fjord with German Antarctic Expedition in 1911/2. Besides the whaling, the regions to the south received considerable attention during the last century for political and possible resource reasons. By the time we reached the fjord entrance at the south-eastern corner of South Georgia, the wind was blowing at 40 knots (75km/hr). Making me reflect on Day 2 of iSimangaliso this year, where I pedalled into 65km/hr headwinds for nearly 10 hours to cover 97km. Standing on the outside decks was interesting, and I wondered whether the Captain would take the ship into the narrow fjord. Without hesitation he turned the ship into this most glorious fjord. The fjord is created by glacial erosion over aeons of time, with old Gondwanaland materials to the north, and newer material evident to the south. Glaciers, cliffs and waterfalls drop very steeply into the deep fjord creating a visual spectacle of the highest order. We are very grateful that visibility was good. Le Lyrial was literally swung about using bow thrusters within her own axis at the top of the fjord.

Helen Ahern asked me to share some thoughts on Shackleton with the Young Explorers, and assist in a quizz to decide which survival objects they would take with them in similar circumstances. The questions and engagement from these youngsters was wonderful.

At 3pm a movie was shown about Frank Wild, Antarctica’s Forgotten Hero. Having saved 6000 Pounds (considerable at that time), Wild moved to South Africa, and attempted cotton farming at Ghost Mountain near Mkuze. Sadly the venture failed and Wild ended up destitute. In a letter to family in Yorkshire, he listed the many forces against him – the worst two being mosquitoes and politicians! Wild died of pneumonia in August of 1939, aged 66, and was eventually to be interred (ashes) next to Shackleton on South Georgia in 2011. Utterly appropriate that these two, who the little white voices kept calling back, be buried alongside one another facing south, toward their beloved Antarctica.

I gave a presentation titled South with Scott. The lecture was well attended, and ended with a definite sense of melancholy with the death of Scott’s entire Polar party en route back to Cape Ross. Interesting that many questions were asked about Amundsen and Shackleton, which I had already covered in detail during those lectures. I sat for dinner with Patri Silva, and 3 American couples – 2 from Chicago, the last from southern California. It was a wonderful evening with lots of laughs, and lively conversation, despite some guests feeling seasick. This may have been accentuated by their champagne party earlier, after the wonders of Gold Harbour.

After dinner the movie Eight Below was screened. A must for animal lovers, but definite tear jerker. Two women in front of me jumped out of their skins when a Leopard Seal popped out to attack the sled dogs!

Subscribe To OurBlog

Subscribe To OurBlog

Join our mailing list to receive the latest blog posts and updates from Rob Caskie.

You have Successfully Subscribed!