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As the Captain said, we have calm seas at present, thankfully. Last evening, the light was exquisite on the mountains and Glaciers surrounding Melchior Islands, before we left the Peninsula behind, and headed out into the open seas of the Drake Passage. This complement of guests have been unusually fortunate with the crossings and weather. They no doubt will go home and tell all and sundry that any talk of rough seas and bad weather in Antarctica is absolute poppycock! It was a busy morning, with guests returning their rented boots, walking poles and waterproof pants. I spoke about lesser know personalities of Antarctic exploration. The audience were stunned at the fortitude of Douglas Mawson surviving, after the deaths of Ninnis and Mertx, and the survival of Shackleton, Wild, Marshall and Adams after their furthest South journey in 1908/9. I went on to talk about the Winter Journey of Wilson, Bowers and Cherry Garrard in the winter of 1911 to Cape Crozier. Had Wilson and Bowers recovered sufficiently physically to be taken by Scott in his final Polar Party, Bowers added at the 11th hour? No talk about early exploration in these parts would be complete without mention of Wild, Crean and Lashly, the whisky found beneath the Cape Royds hut in 2007, and Wild’s ashes return to Grytviken in 2011. A tremendous tapestry into which to weave a story.

Richard Harker was up next, assisting guests in making good photos into great photos when they get home. Basic digital workflow was covered. Photos are tremendously enhanced by getting the blacks absolutely black, and likewise with white, if nothing else. Matters then of saturation, sharpness and temperature were added, along with stitching shots together to create panoramic images. It is always interesting to observe audiences during lectures of this nature. Richard makes it all look so bloody easy and natural, but I could see many who thought he may just as well be speaking Icelandic. There are, however, many guests editing their own photographs very successfully indeed on board. The sunlight on this particular cruise has created fantastic opportunities for photography, along with many who have badly burnt faces and lower lips. The lower lips seem often forgotten when sunblock is applied, leaving little doubt as to the power of the Antarctic sun. I have managed to get a guest to agreeing to giving me some of her better scenery shots, as much of the time we don’t get much time for photography ashore.

I had a very lively, enjoyable lunch with an American guest travelling with his two daughters. These cruises provide the most wonderful opportunity to observe human behaviour. Two evenings ago, father was frantically searching for his daughters, along with various staff on the ship when they were late for dinner. The daughters were in a Yoga meditation trance in the gym, and had lost all track of time. Quite what was going through their father’s mind, he never revealed. One daughter is a TV talk show host, and well versed in the art of questioning. It was interesting indeed to compare the life paths of 4 individuals around the table, which much laughter and affection. We spoke about the book “The five languages of love”, and just how differently we require, and respond to, affection. The younger daughter had moved so far away from me that she was interrupting the traffic flow prompted the beginning of the conversation. Her defence apparently was wanting to be able to see us all better, created much mirth.
Helen and Dean, assisted by Tom and Cobus, were teaching the Young Explorers the art of knot-tying on Deck 5. The program created by Helen is just wonderful, and the engagement amongst the youngsters on board has been fantastic.

Patri’s husband, Dr Marco Favero, is on board, recently elected Secretary of ACAP – Agreement for the Conservation of Albatrosses and Petrels. After lunch, Marco gave a presentation on the threats to these aerial beauties, and the policies being investigated to reduce the effects particularly of long-line fishing on their future. Fisheries also affect sharks, turtles and marine mammals, but the effects hitherto on sea birds have been devastating. Some long-lines extend 80 miles, containing hundreds of thousands of baited hooks, which the birds cannot resist as they leave the ship. Considering that Wandering Albatrosses raise a chick a year, or two chicks every three years, and only reach breeding age at 12 years, the fact that many of these birds do not even reach breeding age is deeply disturbing.

Jason Hicks presented a very detailed presentation on climate change, with some very disturbing statistics for both the northern and southern hemisphere. The USA has discovered gas and oil reserves within the lower 48 states, to serve all their requirements for the next 400 years. The melting Greenland ice cap is disturbing, as is the receding sea ice in the Arctic Sea. This year Polar Bears may be stranded on Svalbard, as the sea ice upon which these creatures are so dependent has not reached the islands. Ever the eternal optimist, Jason went on to speak about lowered population growth rates in parts of Asia, solar power, and ITEL being funded and developed by 22 countries to use geo-engineering to produce electricity. This works upon the same principle as the sun, and produces almost no carbon dioxide. There were many questions around fracking, ground water, earth tremors, etc which Jason dealt with expertly. In Oklahoma, unusable water extracted with gas is pumped into old wells. This in turn lubricates fault lines, common in the state, and produces earth tremors. In Wyoming, a farmer drilling for water, drilled into a gas chamber, and every TV station has capitalised on the horrors of gas coming out of his taps to demonise fracking. The jury is still out, and most folks, including myself, would rather not see fracking conducted locally. Jason spoke for more than an hour, and many people in the audience found the detail, along with the rolling of Le Lyrial on the Drake, more sleep-inducing than they would care to acknowledge. Jason has the most engaging manner of speaking, but is one of those fellows who when asked the time, will happily give you the development of the chronometer over the last four centuries!

As we are leaving Antarctica, the iceberg factory of the Southern Ocean, it would be fair to say a few words about icebergs. The total volume of ice calved from the ice sheet every year is roughly 2300 cubic kilometers, producing around 300 000 icebergs in the Southern Ocean at any one time. Particularly large break-outs from the ice sheets can occur, some larger than Rhode Island. Larger icebergs are tabular in shape and form when calving off the large Ross, Filchner or Amery Ice Shelves takes place. Erosion from wind, waves, escaping gas and melting from warmer sea temperatures creates instability in these tabular icebergs, and they break and roll over to form jagged, irregular icebergs.
An iceberg with 40 meters visible above the water line, may protrude (ice foot) for more than 300 meters below the water line. Roughly speaking 15-20% of the iceberg is visible, the remaining 80-85% is below the water level. Older members of the team openly acknowledge driving close to icebergs when younger, even through ice arches, but the chances of icebergs rolling or breaking makes the practice decidedly dangerous. Really not worth the risk, particularly when guest put their lives in your hands. Eventually they melt completely, as they drift into northerly, warmer water.

This evening, the Captain hosted a lovely cocktail party, and introduced many of the 140 crew to the 190 passengers. Along with the Expedition Team of 14, there are almost 160 crew on board for 190 passengers – running ships like these is big business. Olga sang beautifully, in a dress she had been poured into. Captain’s dinner was superb, as always. The waiters excelled, and one is left wondering how the kitchen to produce such wonderful fare, meal after meal.
I sat with delightful American and Canadian guests – very well travelled, all captains of their respective fields, and Trump was banished from the conversation. Some big rollers passed over the windows in the dining room, but one feels that the sea is reasonably honest and calm for the Drake. Larysa kept guest enthralled with her classical piano recital in the Theatre after dinner.

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