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Antarctica Sound – New Year’s Eve

"May your coming year be filled with magic and dreams and good madness. I hope you read some fine books and kiss someone who thinks you're wonderful, and don't forget to make some art - write or draw or build or sing or live as only you can. And I hope, somewhere in...

Approaching South Shetland Islands

"The great thing in this world is not so much where we stand, as in what direction we are moving...we must sail sometimes with the wind and sometimes against it - but we must sail, and not drift, nor lie at anchor." Oliver Wendell Holmes. Considering the infamous...

Heading south on the Drake Passage

"The old man knew he was going far out and he left the smell of the land behind him and rowed out into the clean early morning smell of the ocean." Ernest Hemingway. We have done likewise, after rebunkering last evening in Puerto Williams, we have left Patagonia, and...

Embarkation in Ushuaia

The country and geography certainly changes markedly as one flies south from Buenos Aires, to Ushuaia, a frontier town in southern Patagonia on the Beagle Channel. Amongst the passengers on the flight, one could sense the excitement of people about to travel to...

Cruising the Drake Passage and sailing the Beagle Channel

"If Antarctica were music it would be Mozart. Art, and it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare. And yet it is something even greater; the only place on Earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it!"  Andrew Denton. Guests are...

Crossing the Drake Passage

After dinner last night, in the spectacular Neumayer Channel, Larry Hobbs announced over the PA system that Orcas had been spotted near the Melchior Islands. Guests streamed out onto the decks as these gorgeous creatures moved all about the ship, their power quite...

Christmas Day Salpetriere Bay and Port Charcot

In 1908 Shackleton wrote "Some bergs had been weathered into fantastic shapes...Beautiful as this scene was, it gave rise to anxiety...for if we were caught in a breeze against this maze, it would go hard on us." Icebergs move by way of current, tide and wind. Large...

Cuverville Island and Paradise Bay

Many guests left their curtains open last evening (far less chance of bird strikes here than South Georgia) to enjoy the constantly falling snow. Snow has not stopped falling since we arrived at Whaler's Bay yesterday, and what an incredible experience to see the snow...

Cruising towards Antarctica

Sir Raymond Priestley wrote "For scientific discovery give me Scott; For speed and efficiency of travel give me Amundsen; but when disaster strikes and all hope is gone, get down on your knees and pray for Shackleton." I used these words, amongst others, to propose a...

Sailing south towards Antarctica

After the absolutely sublime day yesterday at Gold Harbour and Drygalski Fjord, many guests went to bed late celebrating exceeded anticipations. The charm and glory of South Georgia having worked her magic on everybody on board. I was pulled up regarding my comments...

Gold Harbour and Drygalski Fjord, South Georgia

After the high winds and inclement weather yesterday afternoon and evening, it was fantastic to wake up to a much calmer, drier morning. Anchor was dropped early (5am) off Gold Harbour on the southern end of South Georgia. We could clearly see the Bertrab Glacier...

Stromness and Grytviken

South Georgia is for all those who grew up dreaming of a Garden of Eden, where you walk unharmed among abundant and fearless wildlife, in a beautiful wilderness - an oasis of serenity in a world increasingly out of step with nature - Tim Carr, Antarctic Oasis, Under...

Salisbury Plain and Fortuna Bay on South Georgia

Daybreak found us off the north-eastern corner of South Georgia, with some sun popping through low cloud, the play of light on the ocean, mountains, glaciers and snow-capped peaks quite indescribable. Mighty fells with snowy crowns and with sharp, uncovered teeth,...

Passing Shag Rocks en route to South Georgia

Overnight the ambient and sea temperatures dropped from around 6 degrees Centigrade, to 3 degrees, indicating that we have crossed the Antarctic Convergence zone. The waters south of the Convergence differ greatly from more northern oceans in salinity and temperature....

Sailing South on the Scotia Sea

John Muir once wrote "The world is big and I want to get a good look at it before it gets dark". Fair comment, and it is very interesting listening to guest's reasons for taking this journey south. For some it is to get to the Seventh Continent, but for many of these...

Stanley Falkland Islands

..."but if it is peace and quiet you are after, rugged windswept beauty, with ever-changing light, superb farmhouse teas with cream, the most wonderful wildlife and fishing, then you will find them all in abundance in the Falklands" Thankfully by evening last night...

Sailing the Scotia Sea

Ernest Hemingway wrote 'The old man knew he was going far out and he left the smell of the land behind and rowed out into the clean early morning smell of the ocean.' Bunkering of fuel lasted until 1am, before we could proceed down the Beagle Channel and enter the...

Embarkation in Ushuaia

For so many a trip to Antarctica is a bucket list item, something they fervently wish to experience at least once in their lives. For some, today is the first firm step in realising that dream. A&K have been gracious enough to put us up in the finest accommodation...

Antarctic expedition cruising

We had a wonderful all-morning meeting discussing A&K's expectations of us, and the season ahead. Projections for the future were also looked at. It turns out that the 2007/8 season was the halcyon time for Antarctic expedition cruising, prior to the economic...

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